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Southeast: Classic Burger at Dick’s Kitchen

February 10th, 2011 · 2 Comments · Single Standout Menu Item

For Single Standout Menu Item, we review only one dish, one item or one beverage that we feel deserves its own bit of fanfare. This could be the one dish not to be missed, or the item on which the eatery has built its reputation.
Portland, OR Restaurant Review: Dick’s Kitchen in Southeast Portland

Dicks Kitchen (Diner) in Southeast Portland

Dicks Kitchen (Diner) in Southeast Portland

While the notion that a well-named restaurant, curious in the roots of its premise but sound and reasonable as far as a potentially successful small business is concerned — is apparently attractive to both diners and chef/owners alike here in Portland, not every good idea is going to survive and see success.

If you told me that a diner-style restaurant named “Dick’s Kitchen” was going to feature an interior decorated with portraits of famous “Dicks” including Richard Nixon and Dick Van Dyke, my response would probably be a gentle nodding of the head to signify that I saw the clever aspect of your decision, but remained doubtful that it would be enough to get a restaurant off the ground.

Now. If you also told me that you were going to put together a diner whose premise was all about a healthy version of more traditional diner food, I’d probably say — I’d eat there. If you then also went on to tell me that part of the mission of the restaurant would be to educate your patrons on the merits of eating better, beyond just the simple idea that food that is produced with a greater consciousness with regard to the planet actually just plain tastes better, I’d almost be entirely on board and asking if I could run your marketing campaign. Especially in Portland. Especially now. Enter the real Dick’s Kitchen on SE Belmont, where you can get an affordable, delicious burger while simultaneously getting a lesson in how a beef patty is actually supposed to taste.

Breaking Down the Classic Burger at Dick’s Kitchen in Southeast Portland

Dicks Kitchen (Diner) in Southeast Portland: Classic Burger

Dicks Kitchen (Diner) in Southeast Portland: Classic Burger

The Classic Burger ($6.75) with cheddar ($1.00) and a small Not Fries ($2.50). It’s amazing to me, and probably to a lot of other people, that meat doesn’t actually taste anything like McDonald’s says it does. Let me explain. My generation was raised on McDonald’s — whether it was a regular meal or a special treat after grammar school. That’s my experience anyway. It’s why I like Coke and not Pepsi, and it’s why I think McDonald’s French fries are better than Burger King’s, and it’s why sometimes, inexplicably, I just need to eat a Big Mac, no matter how much I know better.

If you’ve had the pleasure of eating a really really good hamburger at a steak house where they grind the chuck by hand, you’ve gotten a bit closer to what burgers really taste like. But not until you have had well-produced, grass-fed beef that is seasoned to perfection and then grilled up in a cast iron skillet — not until that moment will you truly understand what a burger is supposed to taste like. In a word — steak. Barbecued, high quality steak meat like you might cook to perfection on your own backyard grill in the summertime.

And this is what the Classic Burger at Dick’s Kitchen tastes like — a thick, juicy beef patty (I went with the patty cooked up to “Medium” which they offer will be “Some Pink and Very Juicy”), served on a brioche-style light and fluffy bun with house-made and peppery ketchup, cheddar cheese and produce — locally grown and organic onion, tomato and lettuce leaf. Along with the burger, you’ll be served a small ramekin of house-made cole slaw (creamy and moist, this is more than just decoration!) and some pickled radish and cucumber slices (also surprisingly good). This is a great burger. Not really good. Great. Especially for the price, I have to say.

I opted for the Not Fries too, which are described on the menu as “Air baked, hand-cut fingerling potatoes served with your choice of one dipping sauce”), and they were quite good. I just have one little gripe. Sometimes I just want Heinz 57 for my ketchup — admittedly, it crosses my mind when there is a type of house-made ketchup that is good or even great, but doesn’t taste like the perhaps-bad store-bought ketchup that I grew up with. I think I need to do more mental prep work before I go to a restaurant, and open my mind up to all the possibilities that ketchup has to offer, even if my first reaction is slight disappointment and awkward nostalgia for red plastic sauce. Clearly not a big deal, nor is it a deal breaker of any variety. This was a great lunch that only set me back $10.50 and left me well satisfied and not feeling like I’d just diner-greased it up and ought to feel ashamed of my poor dieting skills. There’s lots to look forward to sampling off the menu, as well — we’ll be back to Dick’s Kitchen soon and will review much more of the menu at that time.

More Photographs of Dick’s Kitchen in Southeast Portland

Dicks Kitchen (Diner) in Southeast Portland: Dining Room

Dicks Kitchen (Diner) in Southeast Portland: Dining Room

Dicks Kitchen (Diner) in Southeast Portland: The Grill

Dicks Kitchen (Diner) in Southeast Portland: The Grill

Restaurant Details: Dick’s Kitchen Diner on Belmont in Southeast Portland
Dick’s Kitchen: Portland’s First Stone Age Diner
“Delicious, sustainable fare featuring grass-fed beef burgers, fresh local veggies, and plenty of vegetarian options.”
3312 Southeast Belmont Street (between SE 33 and SE 34 on the south side of the street, closer to 33rd)
Portland, OR 97214
Southeast‎
(503) 235-0146
Hours: Sunday – Tuesday 11:00am – 9:00pm; Wednesday – Friday 11:00am – 10:00pm ‎

Portland, OR Restaurant Map: Dick’s Kitchen in Southeast Portland

Click here for directions: Dick’s Kitchen in Southeast Portland.

Official Site: Dick’s Kitchen in Southeast Portland (Click)
Dick’s Kitchen on Yelp! Portland (Click)
Dick’s Kitchen in Southeast Portland Official Facebook Page (Click)
Dick’s Kitchen in Southeast Portland Official Twitter Feed (Click)
Dick’s Kitchen Menu on Scribd (Click)
Dick’s Kitchen in Southeast Portland on Oregon Live! (Click)

Dick’s Kitchen Diner on Urban Spoon: Dick's Kitchen on Urbanspoon

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Rating: 8.0/10 (1 vote cast)
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Rating: +1 (from 1 vote)
Southeast: Classic Burger at Dick's Kitchen, 8.0 out of 10 based on 1 rating

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